Just at first sight and look we can see that the code of the structured silhouette that has become so trademark alike for van Herpen design has stayed on. But this time some changes were brought along. The form is more fluid and soft and the structured features are captured more on the micro-texture level. The first ensemble was the deep blue gown with the butterfly wings alike attachments. The structured and architect mode was kept only on them, but the rest of the dress, especially the central one in the middle, was falling easily captivating the beauty of the movements. That here was definitely the new thing for Iris van Herpen design. More loosed up silhouette that requires the more romantic nature of the whole thing.
The totally fluid nature was kept on the same level, even more with the next dress. The maxi silhouette with the big cape alike sleeves falling softly. The softness was kept in the print too. In the previous collections, they were more graphic accurate. But here, and especially if we look the second ensemble of the show, the "deep-in" colored fabric has been definitely another innovation to the van Herpen Couture style. The more structured was the deep red dress worn by Alec Wek. The silky petals layered on the top of each other has kept the nature of this collection, and that would be the structured delicacy!
The one thing also that was so characteristic for Iris van Herpen is definitely the futuristic approach, besides the structured silhouettes. Here this extraterrestrial spirit was little-toned down. Yet it could be sensed in the short dresses which were stiff and corsets alike in the appearance with the soft coloristic solutions. Here they were on the more natural side with the reds, whites, blue or violet with the few fluorescent interruptions. With the natural makeup and the colored tips of the fringes, this collection has rounded up the new story for Iris van Herpen!
This collection has definitely some new and interesting sides, like the softness in the form, easy falling dresses that compliment the move, the butterflies inspiration. Yet, the spirit of van Herpen was still kept in the avant-garde details like the structured ruffles, chromatic fusion or hair, and makeup. This collection was not so extravagant as the earlier ones, it strives towards the more Couture "red-carpet-ready" mainstream. The evolution has stepped down just a little bit, and that doesn´t have to be a bad thing! This collection has amazing gowns, with the story to tell! Artistically on point, no doubt to that! And we love it!
What do you think about this collection? Do you like these innovations in Iris van Herpen design? Do you find it still extravagant?
Thank you for the attention!
Georgia! xo
Photos: Courtesy of Vogue.com
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